SAN JOSE PROVINCE
General Information:
Climate: The province of San Jose includes areas representative of practically every climatic regime possible in Costa Rica since its territory extends from almost sea level at several points near the central Pacific coast up to the country's highest peak, Mt. Chirripó, at an elevation of 3,820 m. Additionally, a small portion of the province protrudes down the very wet eastern slopes of the Central Volcanic Cordillera in a section of Braulio Carrillo National Park. Thus, the entire range of temperatures and rainfall patterns that affect Costa Rica can be experienced somewhere in the province.
Nonetheless, the majority of the province of San Jose is blessed by a moderate climate where nothing more than a sweater or lightweight jacket and an umbrella are all the protection from the elements you'll ever need. This mild climatic region lies in an altitudinal band between 700 and 1300 meters above sea level and is under the influence of a distinct dry season from mid-November through mid-May and a corresponding wet season during the remaining half of the year -- the characteristic weather pattern for essentially all of the nation's territory on the western side of the continental divide.
History: The province of San José is the most populated of Costa Rica's seven provinces and is the seat of the nation's capital, the city of San José.
In the early years of the Central Valley's colonization (1560's), families began spreading west from the village of Cartago, and one of the first places settled was the valley of Aserrí (to the south of what is now the city of San José). Some 170 years later, in 1736, the authorities ordered the inhabitants of the valley of Aserrí to move to a site known as "Boca del Monte" and to this end erected a church dedicated to Saint Joseph, which was finished in 1738 -- on a site which is across the street from the east side of what is now the Central Bank. The parish became known as "San José de la Boca del Monte en el Valle de Aserrí". Due to problems with lack of water in the immediate area around the church, however, the inhabitants of Aserrí refused to move to the new site. In 1751, water was finally piped to the area, also known as Villa Nueva, but the residents of Aserrí still had to be almost forced to at last move to the new town.
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By 1824, the population of San José had grown to more than 15,000 and a year earlier the city had become the capital of the newly independent country -- this came after a brief civil war over whether to remain independent (a view backed by residents of San José and Alajuela) or become a part of the Mexican empire (supported by the citizens of Cartago and Heredia). Following the victory of those favoring independence, the capital was moved from Cartago to San José.
Other Points of Interest:
1) Cerro de la Muerte: Along this approximately 50-kilometer stretch of the PanAmerican Highway, one can see practically all of the country's highland flora and fauna, thus making a drive across Cerro de la Muerte like visiting Mount Chirripó, but without all the strenuous effort.
To the North American who is familiar with the vegetation back home, many plants along the Cerro will look familiar. There are alders, blueberries (not a very juicy variety), gooseberries, lady's slippers, Indian paintbrush, giant thistles, and St. John's worts. Nonetheless, botanical surveys of the area show an even stronger affinity with Andean flora.
However, as a result of geographic isolation from their ancestral species, a high percentage of the life forms in these highlands have evolved into distinct, albeit closely related, species.
In the case of birds, nearly fifty percent of the species recorded from Cerro de la Muerte are endemic, that is, species found in the mountains of Costa Rica and adjacent western Panama and nowhere else. Examples of these endemics include: Fiery-throated Hummingbird, Timberline Wren, Sooty Robin, Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush, and Volcano Junco.
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Characteristic elements of the forest understory along the roadside are tree ferns, poor man's umbrella (Gunnera spp.), and scandent bamboo (Chusquea sp.). This bamboo is the dominant understory vegetation in many forested areas and becomes the most conspicuous plant once the tree line is reached between kilometers 88 and 90. A gravel road heading off to the right leads up to the summit of the highest peak in this part of the range at over 3,300 meters above sea level. Numerous local television and radio stations have populated the summit with repeaters.
Beyond this point the highway begins to drop down into the Valle del General and the county seat of San Isidro at a mere 700 meters above sea level. From San José it takes about two hours (nonstop driving) to reach kilometer 90, and another hour or so to San Isidro.
You can walk down any of the side roads going off from the highway and be sure of seeing interesting plants and birds (though, don't leave valuables in an unguarded vehicle).
In the last several years a few local landowners have opened their properties to tourists and charge between $5 and $10 a person for guided tours in their forests. The advantage of visiting one of these farms, in addition to helping the local economy, is that your chances of seeing a Resplendent Quetzal at any time of year are exceptionally good.
Getting there: Take Avenida Central out of town, heading towards Cartago. Upon nearing Cartago, stay on the PanAmerican Highway and follow the signs for Panama. By bus, take the San Isidro del General bus that leaves from near the Coca-Cola bus station. An early start is highly recommended since the mornings are usually sunny and the afternoons are often rainy.
One recommended stop en route, either coming or going, or both, is a local version of a greasy spoon truck stop known as "Los Chesperitos." Located near kilometer 76, the newly expanded cafeteria area offers travelers a variety of taste treats, and their hot chocolate is guaranteed to take the edge off of the worst weather conditions one might encounter on the mountain.
Climate: Sunny mornings can be very pleasant, but overnight temperatures can dip to near freezing, especially from November to January. Bring layers of clothes for being comfortable when out walking around in the varied climate conditions during the course of a day. Take along sun block because if it is sunny the thinner air and cooler temperatures in the highlands can cause you to burn without your even knowing it until it is too late.
History: The name Cerro de la Muerte, which translates as "Mountain of Death", predates the construction of the PanAmerican Highway and refers to the tragic consequences suffered by many who attempted the arduous crossing from the Central Valley to the Valley of San Isidro del General. This entailed a three or four day journey, on foot or on horseback, and meant spending at least two nights in the cold and often rainy highlands. Many were ill-prepared for the inclement weather and, if they did not succumb to hypothermia on the spot, perished from complications such as pneumonia later on.
2) Los Cusingos Neotropical Bird Sanctuary (Dr. Skutch's farm): This small forest reserve has been the private home of Dr. Alexander F. Skutch since 1941. When Dr. Skutch first purchased the land, the cleared area around the house was one of the few clearings in the entire valley of San Isidro del General. By the close of the 20th century, his property has become one of the last remaining forested patches in this now agricultural landscape, where he and his wife live much as they did when they first settled the land -- without motor vehicles, electricity, or telephones.
Visitors to the farm may walk the trail into the forest or along the Peñas Blancas River to personally view some of the many plants and animals, especially birds, that Dr. Skutch has written about over the years. The author of more than twenty books and contributor of countless articles published in the scientific literature, Dr. Skutch is undeniably the foremost naturalist living in Costa Rica.
A highlight of any visit to Los Cusingos is sitting on the porch and watching the birds that come to the feeding tray across the yard. Among the most frequent species at the feeder are Scarlet-rumped Tanager, Green Honeycreeper, Buff-throated Saltator, Bananaquit, and Speckled Tanager. Most every afternoon (and sometimes in the morning) a male Turquoise Cotinga -- a stunningly plumaged bird -- can be found sitting in the big mayo tree visible from the porch.
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Admission policy: In 1993, the Tropical Science Center (the same private organization that owns and operates the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve) entered into an agreement with Dr. Skutch to take over the management of Los Cusingos. They now handle reservations for interested visitors through their San José office (tel: 253-3267 / fax: 253-4963). An entrance fee of $8 per person is charged (as of March 1995), and visitation is limited to 15 persons per day.Getting there: Solicit directions from the Tropical Science Center when making your reservations.
Climate: Expect mornings to be hot all year long. Thundershowers are a possibility in the afternoon, even during the dry season (December - April). Insect repellent is recommended since there are frequently small black flies that can be bothersome.
History: Dr. Skutch bought this piece of land in 1941 for the purpose of being able to study the life histories of the many neotropical bird species that inhabited it. The name Los Cusingos comes from the local common name for the Fiery-billed Araçari, a slender member of the toucan family. Dr. Skutch chose this name because of all the numerous native bird species on the farm this was one that was well known to neighboring residents and also is a species unique to the southern Pacific portion of Costa Rica and western Panama. It has also persisted over the years while other large species have disappeared due to the amount of deforestation in the region.
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